Notes from the Field No. 2: A Taste of History
A discussion of the cultural impacts of hosting a military presence
Caption: Bubbling 부대찌개 (budujjigae, or army stew)
In my last post, I talked about the impact of military bases on local communities in terms of both a. their potential as targets of attack from other countries and b. the physical nature of the bases in terms of their space and visibility in the community.
Related to the latter point that I have especially appreciated in doing fieldwork in host communities is the cultural impact of hosting a military base. In my experience, both a country’s own military bases and those of another country (such as the US bases in South Korea) can leave a big cultural impact on both the local community and the country in general (especially when hosting foreign military bases), for better or worse. For example, Yokosuka, Japan, is clearly a naval city, a legacy that dates back to the Japanese Imperial Navy and continues today as it hosts both US and Japanese bases. And even in the US, I have observed the influence of the US naval presence on local culture in Hampton Roads, VA, where I have lived now for almost a year.
Of course, there are many ways that the impact of hosting a military presence can manifest culturally. For example, in one of my favorite books on US bases abroad, Daniel Immerwahr, discusses the impacts of the US military in the UK on music and specifically the importation of rock music. The aspect that I have observed the most, and the one that I find the most interesting, is the impact of the military on local and national cuisine. In the context of my research, I have observed this across Japan, South Korea, and the Philippines (where I have done fieldwork). I always find it fascinating the ways that host communities have used ingredients imported or introduced by the US military and adapted them to their particular context and cuisine. For example, Spam is prevalent in several dishes across the Asia-Pacific, in part a result of the US military presence in the region. I often enjoy taco rice when I go to Okinawa (it is what it sounds like) and spaghetti with sweet sauce in the Philippines (the only way I’ll eat spaghetti these days!). And, arguably, Korean fried chicken (“KFC”)(i.e., the best fried chicken) appears to have some roots in the US military presence dating back to the Korean War.
Yesterday, I encountered US military-influenced cuisine in South Korea unexpectedly (i.e., it was not KFC), through a combination of curiosity and my limited Korean. I went to a restaurant near my hotel that looked good and had what I knew to be Korean stew; it turns out that it specializes in 부대찌개, or army stew. Originating around the time of the Korean War, when food in Korea was scarce, the stew combines both traditionally Korean and American ingredients with a spicy gochujang-based broth. Mine stew contained sausage, Spam, noodles (not ramen, though that is apparently the “traditional” noodle), rice cake, mandu (dumplings), vegetables, tofu, and, of course, a slice of American cheese. I really enjoyed it and look forward to trying to make it when I return!